Day 8. January 24. Finish: Nouadhibou. Distance: 425 km.
We'll be crossing the Tropic of Cancer today. It's easy to spot the Tropic of Cancer because there's a sign that says Tropic of Cancer. It's customary to leave a little trinket here to commemorate your crossing of the TOC. From today on, you'll be in the tropics.
Tropic of Cancer sign: N23 26.362 W15 57.969
If the sign has fallen please help it up!
There won't be much excitement till we reach Guerguarat. The desert landscape will become more and more like the way we always envisioned the Sahara. There will be several military checkpoints along the way. Slow down in time and make sure you have your papers handy. Make sure you fill up your vehicle and your jerry cans at the last gas station before the border. Fuel is cheaper here than in Mauritania. The last gas station in W. Sahara.
We'll be crossing the border at Fort Guerguarat. Keep in mind that the border closes between noon and 2pm for prayers and lunch.
Get ready for a nightmarish border crossing today. This will really be awful. Normally it takes 3-4 hours. During the Budapest-Bamako it takes 6-10 hours and there is not much we can do about it.
The border crossing takes place in 8 levels. You need to complete all 8 levels before you're home, safe.
Level 1 - Moroccan Police
They need to enter your passport information into a computer. There's one guy for this and he only uses on finger for typing. Then another guy checks his work. A third one enters your data in a book and then a fourth guy checks everyone's work in a different room. This usually takes about 1-3 hours. You need to wait for your passport at the metal police barricades.
Level 2 - Moroccan Customs
This is considerably faster than Level 1. If you don't have your customs papers you got at the point of entry, you will have to go back to Tangier or Nador. Once your papers are ok, they'll be stamped and you are ready for Level 3.
Level 3 - Moroccan Customs Check
You need to go outside and show your car to the customs guys outside who checks your vehicle, as well asthe officer's work who stamped your customs papers. They are always looking for drugs or guns. Don't carry either of these with you!
Level 4 - Gendermarie
This is a national police of sorts. The guys at Level 1 were local. These guys are the Feds. Their main tool of the trade is a gigantic leather bound book with checkered paper. This is where they have to write everyone's name by hand. Last year I recommended that we'd submit a computer printout or an email with every particpant's information. Their answer: OK, but how do we get the names into the book? Good point. Here the system is a little better; you have to take a number. Expected wait is 2-4 hours.
Level 5 - UN supervised demilitarized zone - mine field
You are done with Morocco, you are now ready to proceed to Mauritania.
WARNING: DO NOT GET OFF THE TRACK HERE! LANDMINES ARE EVERYWHERE! THIS IS A MILITARY ZONE! BETWEEN THE TWO BORDER POSTS THERE ARE LANDMINES!
In the past we mistakenly called this area no man's land. It's a military buffer zone under UN supervision. Neither the Mauris nor the Moroccans are allowed to enter in uniform.
There are several dangers here:
a) Landmines
b) Local guides! They will want to change money for you, show you where it's safe to drive, sell you postcards, wash your car, knit you a sweater, etc. If you are a license plate collector, they also sell license plates from varius countries. DO NOT DEAL WITH THEM. Yo uhave no recourse. This area is not governed by the laws of any country. If you feel safer by having a guide, the going rate is 20 Euros. If you get stuck in the sand, the rate for pulling you out is 40 Euros. DO NOT CHANGE MONEY HERE! There have been reports of counterfeit bank notes and other scams.
Don't get lost today. ALWAYS FOLLOW TYRE PRINTS. This is the only rule for this section. Everyone is afraid the first time. Don't be nervous! Always keep to the left. Follow the track, the prints and keep to the left until you reach the Mauritanian post.
Be careful and alert. If you have a 2x2 car, don't go onto soft sand! If you are nervous, hire a guide. Agree on the price and pay him only at the Mauritanian border.
WELCOME TO MAURITANIA
It's generally easier to cross the border coming into Mauritania than entering Morocco. The process has imprved greatly here since they demolished the two refrigerator boxes and erected a border post made of bricks instead. The customs shed is still made of industrial and animal waste, but there are signs of progress.
LEVEL 6 - Police
Show your passports. Smile. Normally the police guy always demands a petit cadeau. In 2005 it slowed down the border crossing .The constant arguing, haggling and bargaining made everyone edgy and slowed down the process. Give them something. Give 5-10 Euros, a flishlight, casette tape, T-shirt or whatever else you have in your petit cadeau box just to speed up the process. Don't give porn or booze.
LEVEL 7 - Border Guards.
Show your passports. Show your visa. Smile.
LEVEL 8 - Customs.
Here they can get a little mean. You need to register your car with customs just like in Morocco. Fill out the paperwork, pay 10 Euros and you are good to go. If you've been to Mauritania by car and your car is not stamped out of your passport, please get a new passport. It's cheaper than paying 50-100 Euros in bribes. It happened to me this year. You don't need an international driver's license.
Attention TRAINSPOTTERS: East of the paved road is the railway line, where the world's longest train runs twice daily.
Today's end stage is Nouadhibou. Please be careful in the city. Sailors, picpockets, illegal immigrants and prostitutes make the fabric of Nouadhibou colorful. Don't take more money than you can afford to lose. Leave your camera and valuables in a sfae place.
At the Abba there's a cook who makes excellent fish dishes. Find her and charm her into making you a fish feast.
Saturday, 24 January 2009
Friday, 23 January 2009
8.05pm
Question: Will you try to replace the windscreen?
Brendan writes "Nay, we'll try our luck with the crack. Brought the ski goggles just in case! We have 400 km left to go tonight..."
Brendan writes "Nay, we'll try our luck with the crack. Brought the ski goggles just in case! We have 400 km left to go tonight..."
5.54pm
News arrived that the Landrover windscreen has been hit hard in three places and is cracked from edge to edge. The Editor quickly got some supplier contact details to the boys (thanks for your help, Scott!).
Brendan writes "The South African team we're travelling with just had to replace a water pump - 4 hour job :-(. Will take 4 days to get the new windscreen out of UK so we superglued it and cross our fingers."
Brendan writes "The South African team we're travelling with just had to replace a water pump - 4 hour job :-(. Will take 4 days to get the new windscreen out of UK so we superglued it and cross our fingers."
From the roadbook...
Day 7. January 23. Finish: Tropic of Cancer. Distance: 880 km
About a 100-150 km from camp you will cross an imaginary border. You will enter into Western Sahara, but you are still in Morocco. "Huh?", you may ask. You are in a politically and diplomatically sensitive area, which is called Western Sahar, but because of it's occupied status, it's also called Southern Morocco. Because of it's special status there are also special circumstances here. Checkpoints, landmines and cheap gas.
WARNING! WARNING! DO NOT GET OFF THE TRACK!! DON'T DRIVE OFF TRACK. THERE ARE LANDMINES IN THIS AREA!
Get foor and fuel in Smara. Today we'll pass through Western Sahara's largest city, Laayoune. You can also fill up here. There are restaurants and many stores where you can buy fresh fruit and fish. After Laayoune you'll spot the Atlantic Coast. There are two great sites that shouldn't be missed today. One of them is a gorgeous virgin beach. Get off the main road to enjoy the beach here: N25 58.149 W14 30.110
The other is a thermal hot spring near Dakhla. We can't reveal the GPS coordinates of this place. It's yours to discover. If you do manage to find the thermal spring, an old lady will turn the water on for you for 10-20DH and you will take the best shower of your life. Please don't hog the shower. Let others use it too.
You'll also see many shipwrecks along the coast today. Tonight's bivouac will be South of Dakhla checkpoint on the beach. Dakhla has some crappy hotels and some half decent restaurants, but generally it's not worth driving 60 km back and forth. If you need to buy basic supplies, do your shopping at the gas station after the checkpoint.
There's an oyster farm near tonight's camp site, so if you'd like to take a break from canned food here's your chance. Don't forget to bring some champagne!
About a 100-150 km from camp you will cross an imaginary border. You will enter into Western Sahara, but you are still in Morocco. "Huh?", you may ask. You are in a politically and diplomatically sensitive area, which is called Western Sahar, but because of it's occupied status, it's also called Southern Morocco. Because of it's special status there are also special circumstances here. Checkpoints, landmines and cheap gas.
WARNING! WARNING! DO NOT GET OFF THE TRACK!! DON'T DRIVE OFF TRACK. THERE ARE LANDMINES IN THIS AREA!
Get foor and fuel in Smara. Today we'll pass through Western Sahara's largest city, Laayoune. You can also fill up here. There are restaurants and many stores where you can buy fresh fruit and fish. After Laayoune you'll spot the Atlantic Coast. There are two great sites that shouldn't be missed today. One of them is a gorgeous virgin beach. Get off the main road to enjoy the beach here: N25 58.149 W14 30.110
The other is a thermal hot spring near Dakhla. We can't reveal the GPS coordinates of this place. It's yours to discover. If you do manage to find the thermal spring, an old lady will turn the water on for you for 10-20DH and you will take the best shower of your life. Please don't hog the shower. Let others use it too.
You'll also see many shipwrecks along the coast today. Tonight's bivouac will be South of Dakhla checkpoint on the beach. Dakhla has some crappy hotels and some half decent restaurants, but generally it's not worth driving 60 km back and forth. If you need to buy basic supplies, do your shopping at the gas station after the checkpoint.
There's an oyster farm near tonight's camp site, so if you'd like to take a break from canned food here's your chance. Don't forget to bring some champagne!
Thursday, 22 January 2009
9pm
The Editor just got a call from the boys... they did not make it to the Star Wars party! Came up about 200 km short. Brendan was enjoying a nice hot bath (in the tent??) instead. They got some catching up to do tomorrow.
6.15pm
Brendan writes "Roads aren't so flash on this side of the Atlas. We know we're in Africa now. Will be touch and go to make Star Wars!"
3.03pm
Brendan writes "Driving through the Atlas amazing. Had to wait for the boys in the bulldozer to clear a mudslide for us but otherwise unscathed."
From the roadbook...
Day 6. January 22. Finish: Planet Tatooine.
No matter which way you go, you'll drive through some stunning scenery today. It's worth stopping in Therjit to see how an oasis town functions. After Tan-Tan turn south toward Abbetteh. You'll find Planet Tatooine here, where the Second Annual Saharan Star Wars Party will be held. If you wear a Star Wars Costume you'll get free beer courtesy of Bus #7. At 9pm we will have an open air screening of the original Star Wars. The first one, you know. Get your seats early and don't leave your light saber in your pod.
No matter which way you go, you'll drive through some stunning scenery today. It's worth stopping in Therjit to see how an oasis town functions. After Tan-Tan turn south toward Abbetteh. You'll find Planet Tatooine here, where the Second Annual Saharan Star Wars Party will be held. If you wear a Star Wars Costume you'll get free beer courtesy of Bus #7. At 9pm we will have an open air screening of the original Star Wars. The first one, you know. Get your seats early and don't leave your light saber in your pod.
Wednesday, 21 January 2009
11.48am
Brendan writes "Driving through cork plantations en route to Casablanca for lunch. Waited in Tanger for team South Africa to arrive. Surf on the coast is pumping and no one is out..."
From the roadbook...
Day 5. January 21. Finish: Ait Benhadhou. Distance: 660 km.
Today we'll leave the hustle and bustle of the Northern coast and head toward the enchanted Morocco of fairy tales. It's worth stopping in Casablanca for a while. It's not like the movie. First, it's in color. Second, Humphrey Bogart is dead. However, if you want to live out your Hollywood fantasies, head to Rick's Cafe, which was styled after the movie. The food is delicious too.
From here, go to Marrakech which should not be missed. Watch out for the regular tourist hassles, scams and pickpockets. Get a guide book or just inhale the magic of the old city and the markets. Make sure you find parking in a guarded lot.
Go toward Ourzazate and then to Ait Benhadhou. This is an old fortified kasbah, which is now part of the UNESCO world heritage sites. It's simply breathtaking. You can get to Ait Benhadhou on the scenic Route of Casbahs. This will take 3-4 hours at least. After Telouet the paved roads will end. If you can't get herebefore sunset don't even attempt this drive. It's not worth it.
Today we'll leave the hustle and bustle of the Northern coast and head toward the enchanted Morocco of fairy tales. It's worth stopping in Casablanca for a while. It's not like the movie. First, it's in color. Second, Humphrey Bogart is dead. However, if you want to live out your Hollywood fantasies, head to Rick's Cafe, which was styled after the movie. The food is delicious too.
From here, go to Marrakech which should not be missed. Watch out for the regular tourist hassles, scams and pickpockets. Get a guide book or just inhale the magic of the old city and the markets. Make sure you find parking in a guarded lot.
Go toward Ourzazate and then to Ait Benhadhou. This is an old fortified kasbah, which is now part of the UNESCO world heritage sites. It's simply breathtaking. You can get to Ait Benhadhou on the scenic Route of Casbahs. This will take 3-4 hours at least. After Telouet the paved roads will end. If you can't get herebefore sunset don't even attempt this drive. It's not worth it.
Tuesday, 20 January 2009
12.30pm
Brendan writes "Just leaving motorway from Malaga heading to the coast. Drive through Sierra Nevada was spectacular!"
From the roadbook...
Day 4. January 20. Finish: Tangier. Distance: 543 km.
You'll only have 543 kms to drive today. If you want to enjoy some coastal drivin, get off the highway near Marbella. Don't miss the monkeys of Gibraltar either.
Border crossing:
Your car must have a green card (insurance) in Morocco. You either buy this in your home country or at the border. The border crossing in general will feel like a pain in the neck. Welcome to Africa. You'll get through it.
First you'll go through immigration, and then you'll customs clear you vehicle. You'll get some papers from customs. After you get your papers stamped and approved you'll have to go back to your car and leave the border area. DO NOT THROW THEM AWAY! DO NOT LOSE THEM! YOU'LL NEED THEM WHEN YOU LEAVE THE COUNTRY.
ATTENTION: People might come up to your car offering you help for a smoother and speedier border crossing. Don't give them money and politely reject their services. Watch out for pickpockets at the border. Do not give your passport to anyone who doesn't have a uniform. It can be a little chaotic.
You can camp, get a room or even a spacious apartment here. Book your room in advance. If no rooms are available, there are many hotels in town. Make sure they have a closed parking lot. Tanger is a tough city with people trying to hassle and rob you. The camping site is a safe and comfortable place. If it's full and you find no suitable option in the city head south to Casablanca. There's a highway all the way there.
You'll only have 543 kms to drive today. If you want to enjoy some coastal drivin, get off the highway near Marbella. Don't miss the monkeys of Gibraltar either.
Border crossing:
Your car must have a green card (insurance) in Morocco. You either buy this in your home country or at the border. The border crossing in general will feel like a pain in the neck. Welcome to Africa. You'll get through it.
First you'll go through immigration, and then you'll customs clear you vehicle. You'll get some papers from customs. After you get your papers stamped and approved you'll have to go back to your car and leave the border area. DO NOT THROW THEM AWAY! DO NOT LOSE THEM! YOU'LL NEED THEM WHEN YOU LEAVE THE COUNTRY.
ATTENTION: People might come up to your car offering you help for a smoother and speedier border crossing. Don't give them money and politely reject their services. Watch out for pickpockets at the border. Do not give your passport to anyone who doesn't have a uniform. It can be a little chaotic.
You can camp, get a room or even a spacious apartment here. Book your room in advance. If no rooms are available, there are many hotels in town. Make sure they have a closed parking lot. Tanger is a tough city with people trying to hassle and rob you. The camping site is a safe and comfortable place. If it's full and you find no suitable option in the city head south to Casablanca. There's a highway all the way there.
Monday, 19 January 2009
3.47pm
Brendan writes "Late lunch in Valencia - paella on it's way! Our buddies from SA (South Africa) are having a bad day - got stuck in a snow drift, copped a 150 pound fine, waiting overnight for a water pump and just trashed a tyre!"
6.40am
Brendan writes "We got an early start and are headed for Barcelona. Hoping for a few more degrees as we're camping tonight. Pastis and boulabaisse went down a treat in Marseille last night!"
From the roadbook...
Day 3. January 19. Finish: Sangonera La Seca (Spain) near Murcia. Daily drive: 1121km.
This will be the longest stage of the B2B. You should wake up and leave as early as possible. Be ready for this day. You're looking at an 8-14 hour drive. You should be well rested. Don't party too much in France.
What you have to pay attention to in the morning is not running out of gas. For some strange reason, there are very few gas stations on the first leg of the drive. You can drive 100km without seeing one. So fill up whenever you have a chance.
If you have an extra hour or two, visit Montserrat near Barcelone or take some time and drive on the beach.
The official finish is in Sangonera La Seca, which is 15 km from Murcia. You can sleep in bungalows or set up your tent. The place is pretty crappy, but it's conveniently located and it's a great place to party and meet other teams. Try making new friends because you might have to share a bungalow with some other people. Last year there were 8-10 people in a 6 person bungalow. The staff are pretty rude and they have a tendency to shut the gates after 11pm. If you'd like something more comfortable, think about staying in Murcia. Alternatively, there's a big yearround nudist camp 60km south from Murcia. If you're up for another 30-45 minutes of driving and some nudity, check out the scene at Camping Portus.
This will be the longest stage of the B2B. You should wake up and leave as early as possible. Be ready for this day. You're looking at an 8-14 hour drive. You should be well rested. Don't party too much in France.
What you have to pay attention to in the morning is not running out of gas. For some strange reason, there are very few gas stations on the first leg of the drive. You can drive 100km without seeing one. So fill up whenever you have a chance.
If you have an extra hour or two, visit Montserrat near Barcelone or take some time and drive on the beach.
The official finish is in Sangonera La Seca, which is 15 km from Murcia. You can sleep in bungalows or set up your tent. The place is pretty crappy, but it's conveniently located and it's a great place to party and meet other teams. Try making new friends because you might have to share a bungalow with some other people. Last year there were 8-10 people in a 6 person bungalow. The staff are pretty rude and they have a tendency to shut the gates after 11pm. If you'd like something more comfortable, think about staying in Murcia. Alternatively, there's a big yearround nudist camp 60km south from Murcia. If you're up for another 30-45 minutes of driving and some nudity, check out the scene at Camping Portus.
Sunday, 18 January 2009
From Venice to Meyreuil...
7.35am - "Stayed in a small town just outside of Venice. Yummy food and chianti! Almost followed the faithful GPS into a canal a couple of times on the way in!"
9.24am - "We're on the road - coffee in Milano & lunch in Monaco. Tough day at the office!"
From the roadbook:
Day 2. January 18. Finish: Meyreuil. Daily distance: 776 km
Enjoy the sights of the Cote D'Azur. Stop in Monte Carlo, Cannes or Nice.
Have a nice meal in France. This will be one of your last chances to eat well. Aix En Provence is a small town 30km from Marseille. Next to this town there's a small village called Meyreuil.
9.24am - "We're on the road - coffee in Milano & lunch in Monaco. Tough day at the office!"
(Editor's note: Surely the Editor deserves those two new pairs of shoes, if someone is dining his way through the south of France? I thought they were roughing it??)
From the roadbook:
Day 2. January 18. Finish: Meyreuil. Daily distance: 776 km
Enjoy the sights of the Cote D'Azur. Stop in Monte Carlo, Cannes or Nice.
Have a nice meal in France. This will be one of your last chances to eat well. Aix En Provence is a small town 30km from Marseille. Next to this town there's a small village called Meyreuil.
Saturday, 17 January 2009
And they're off to a flying start!
10.30am - Ready Set GO!
1.50pm - Brendan writes "We're in Slovenia after the quickest visit to Croatia ever - oops, wrong turn :-)"
"Just another stamp in the passport!"
4.22pm - "Near border of Italy - pasta for dinner!"
1.50pm - Brendan writes "We're in Slovenia after the quickest visit to Croatia ever - oops, wrong turn :-)"
"Just another stamp in the passport!"
4.22pm - "Near border of Italy - pasta for dinner!"
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