Friday, 23 January 2009

8.05pm

Question: Will you try to replace the windscreen?

Brendan writes "Nay, we'll try our luck with the crack. Brought the ski goggles just in case! We have 400 km left to go tonight..."

5.54pm

News arrived that the Landrover windscreen has been hit hard in three places and is cracked from edge to edge. The Editor quickly got some supplier contact details to the boys (thanks for your help, Scott!).

Brendan writes "The South African team we're travelling with just had to replace a water pump - 4 hour job :-(. Will take 4 days to get the new windscreen out of UK so we superglued it and cross our fingers."

From the roadbook...

Day 7. January 23. Finish: Tropic of Cancer. Distance: 880 km

About a 100-150 km from camp you will cross an imaginary border. You will enter into Western Sahara, but you are still in Morocco. "Huh?", you may ask. You are in a politically and diplomatically sensitive area, which is called Western Sahar, but because of it's occupied status, it's also called Southern Morocco. Because of it's special status there are also special circumstances here. Checkpoints, landmines and cheap gas.

WARNING! WARNING! DO NOT GET OFF THE TRACK!! DON'T DRIVE OFF TRACK. THERE ARE LANDMINES IN THIS AREA!

Get foor and fuel in Smara. Today we'll pass through Western Sahara's largest city, Laayoune. You can also fill up here. There are restaurants and many stores where you can buy fresh fruit and fish. After Laayoune you'll spot the Atlantic Coast. There are two great sites that shouldn't be missed today. One of them is a gorgeous virgin beach. Get off the main road to enjoy the beach here: N25 58.149 W14 30.110

The other is a thermal hot spring near Dakhla. We can't reveal the GPS coordinates of this place. It's yours to discover. If you do manage to find the thermal spring, an old lady will turn the water on for you for 10-20DH and you will take the best shower of your life. Please don't hog the shower. Let others use it too.

You'll also see many shipwrecks along the coast today. Tonight's bivouac will be South of Dakhla checkpoint on the beach. Dakhla has some crappy hotels and some half decent restaurants, but generally it's not worth driving 60 km back and forth. If you need to buy basic supplies, do your shopping at the gas station after the checkpoint.

There's an oyster farm near tonight's camp site, so if you'd like to take a break from canned food here's your chance. Don't forget to bring some champagne!

Thursday, 22 January 2009

9pm

The Editor just got a call from the boys... they did not make it to the Star Wars party! Came up about 200 km short. Brendan was enjoying a nice hot bath (in the tent??) instead. They got some catching up to do tomorrow.

6.15pm

Brendan writes "Roads aren't so flash on this side of the Atlas. We know we're in Africa now. Will be touch and go to make Star Wars!"

3.03pm

Brendan writes "Driving through the Atlas amazing. Had to wait for the boys in the bulldozer to clear a mudslide for us but otherwise unscathed."

From the roadbook...

Day 6. January 22. Finish: Planet Tatooine.

No matter which way you go, you'll drive through some stunning scenery today. It's worth stopping in Therjit to see how an oasis town functions. After Tan-Tan turn south toward Abbetteh. You'll find Planet Tatooine here, where the Second Annual Saharan Star Wars Party will be held. If you wear a Star Wars Costume you'll get free beer courtesy of Bus #7. At 9pm we will have an open air screening of the original Star Wars. The first one, you know. Get your seats early and don't leave your light saber in your pod.

Wednesday, 21 January 2009

11.48am

Brendan writes "Driving through cork plantations en route to Casablanca for lunch. Waited in Tanger for team South Africa to arrive. Surf on the coast is pumping and no one is out..."

From the roadbook...

Day 5. January 21. Finish: Ait Benhadhou. Distance: 660 km.

Today we'll leave the hustle and bustle of the Northern coast and head toward the enchanted Morocco of fairy tales. It's worth stopping in Casablanca for a while. It's not like the movie. First, it's in color. Second, Humphrey Bogart is dead. However, if you want to live out your Hollywood fantasies, head to Rick's Cafe, which was styled after the movie. The food is delicious too.

From here, go to Marrakech which should not be missed. Watch out for the regular tourist hassles, scams and pickpockets. Get a guide book or just inhale the magic of the old city and the markets. Make sure you find parking in a guarded lot.

Go toward Ourzazate and then to Ait Benhadhou. This is an old fortified kasbah, which is now part of the UNESCO world heritage sites. It's simply breathtaking. You can get to Ait Benhadhou on the scenic Route of Casbahs. This will take 3-4 hours at least. After Telouet the paved roads will end. If you can't get herebefore sunset don't even attempt this drive. It's not worth it.

Tuesday, 20 January 2009

3.28pm

Brendan writes "Crossing the straits of Gibraltar - Africa in our sights!"

12.30pm

Brendan writes "Just leaving motorway from Malaga heading to the coast. Drive through Sierra Nevada was spectacular!"

From the roadbook...

Day 4. January 20. Finish: Tangier. Distance: 543 km.
You'll only have 543 kms to drive today. If you want to enjoy some coastal drivin, get off the highway near Marbella. Don't miss the monkeys of Gibraltar either.

Border crossing:
Your car must have a green card (insurance) in Morocco. You either buy this in your home country or at the border. The border crossing in general will feel like a pain in the neck. Welcome to Africa. You'll get through it.

First you'll go through immigration, and then you'll customs clear you vehicle. You'll get some papers from customs. After you get your papers stamped and approved you'll have to go back to your car and leave the border area. DO NOT THROW THEM AWAY! DO NOT LOSE THEM! YOU'LL NEED THEM WHEN YOU LEAVE THE COUNTRY.

ATTENTION: People might come up to your car offering you help for a smoother and speedier border crossing. Don't give them money and politely reject their services. Watch out for pickpockets at the border. Do not give your passport to anyone who doesn't have a uniform. It can be a little chaotic.

You can camp, get a room or even a spacious apartment here. Book your room in advance. If no rooms are available, there are many hotels in town. Make sure they have a closed parking lot. Tanger is a tough city with people trying to hassle and rob you. The camping site is a safe and comfortable place. If it's full and you find no suitable option in the city head south to Casablanca. There's a highway all the way there.

Monday, 19 January 2009

3.47pm

Brendan writes "Late lunch in Valencia - paella on it's way! Our buddies from SA (South Africa) are having a bad day - got stuck in a snow drift, copped a 150 pound fine, waiting overnight for a water pump and just trashed a tyre!"

6.40am

Brendan writes "We got an early start and are headed for Barcelona. Hoping for a few more degrees as we're camping tonight. Pastis and boulabaisse went down a treat in Marseille last night!"

From the roadbook...











Day 3. January 19. Finish: Sangonera La Seca (Spain) near Murcia. Daily drive: 1121km.

This will be the longest stage of the B2B. You should wake up and leave as early as possible. Be ready for this day. You're looking at an 8-14 hour drive. You should be well rested. Don't party too much in France.

What you have to pay attention to in the morning is not running out of gas. For some strange reason, there are very few gas stations on the first leg of the drive. You can drive 100km without seeing one. So fill up whenever you have a chance.

If you have an extra hour or two, visit Montserrat near Barcelone or take some time and drive on the beach.

The official finish is in Sangonera La Seca, which is 15 km from Murcia. You can sleep in bungalows or set up your tent. The place is pretty crappy, but it's conveniently located and it's a great place to party and meet other teams. Try making new friends because you might have to share a bungalow with some other people. Last year there were 8-10 people in a 6 person bungalow. The staff are pretty rude and they have a tendency to shut the gates after 11pm. If you'd like something more comfortable, think about staying in Murcia. Alternatively, there's a big yearround nudist camp 60km south from Murcia. If you're up for another 30-45 minutes of driving and some nudity, check out the scene at Camping Portus.

Sunday, 18 January 2009

3.44pm

Brendan writes "Crepes went down a treat in Monaco - cruzin down the Cote d'Azur!"

From Venice to Meyreuil...

7.35am - "Stayed in a small town just outside of Venice. Yummy food and chianti! Almost followed the faithful GPS into a canal a couple of times on the way in!"

9.24am - "We're on the road - coffee in Milano & lunch in Monaco. Tough day at the office!"
(Editor's note: Surely the Editor deserves those two new pairs of shoes, if someone is dining his way through the south of France? I thought they were roughing it??)

From the roadbook:
Day 2. January 18. Finish: Meyreuil. Daily distance: 776 km
Enjoy the sights of the Cote D'Azur. Stop in Monte Carlo, Cannes or Nice.
Have a nice meal in France. This will be one of your last chances to eat well. Aix En Provence is a small town 30km from Marseille. Next to this town there's a small village called Meyreuil.

Saturday, 17 January 2009

And they're off to a flying start!

10.30am - Ready Set GO!

1.50pm - Brendan writes "We're in Slovenia after the quickest visit to Croatia ever - oops, wrong turn :-)"

"Just another stamp in the passport!"

4.22pm - "Near border of Italy - pasta for dinner!"

Some more pics at the Start line....
















Friday, 16 January 2009

Best bath ever.....
















After a few busy days searching out sand ladders (not an easy task in Budapest let me tell you), loading maps of Africa onto the GPS, press conferences, stuffing ourselves with goulash and discussing various red wine smuggling options with fellow travellers we were both stoked to discover the thermal baths. Even with sub zero air temps the outdoor Szechenyi gyogyfurdo baths are maintained at a sensational 38 deg C thanks to the plentiful, underground thermal springs. Even the ducks on the nearby lake were looking pretty pleased that a little of the hot water was leaking their way. Not only could you lay back an enjoy the sensational mineral bath surrounded by period architecture but you can can also sip on a cool beer at the same time - very civilised!



We checked the Disco in at the start line this afternoon and took a few pics with the sponsors -Martin & Mickael flew in from Doha last night to attend the send off festivities. Tonite we'll attend a function for all the foreign teams participating in this years B2B and look forward meeting a more of the colourful characters that this event attracts. Tomorrow morning we roll out of town enroute for Italy and the rally will be underway - game on!



Public Warning - Anyone visiting WorldGate GPS in Budapest should exercise extreme caution when asking owner "Zoltan" about his home brewed prickly pear liquor. Pete made the fatal mistake earlier today and was only saved when a Dutch team rolled into the store and opened the door long enough for him to duck out! Here's a sample of the SMS I received whilst Pete was under siege "Dude this is way beyond Giddy up, this is spank em hard. A Dutch team has arrived and they are ceremoniously getting greeted by Zultan". Zultan's wife warned Pete too late that Zultan's friends run for cover fast when he reaches for the bottle.