Friday, 30 January 2009
Update
Got a call from the boys' satellite phone just now... they are 300 km from Bamako! On the home straight!
Tuesday, 27 January 2009
The Big Switch
The Editor got a call from the boys last night to inform us that instead of taking the scheduled rest day today, they are going to pace it up and find the racing group! Yes, they are switching groups and racing to the finish line. More details to follow.
Monday, 26 January 2009
From the roadbook...
Day 10. January 26. Finish: Nouakchott. Distance: 180 km.
According to our intelligence, the low tide is expected at around 5.14am. The problem with this is that you have to drive in the dark. It doesn't make much sense and it's not very safe either. The afternoon low tide is expected at 5.40pm which means that if you leave around 4pm you should bein Nouakchott by 7-8pm. You'll have the whole day to swim, relax, play volleyball and chill on the beach. In 2007 the beach party was a blast. Bring beach toys with you! In 2008 we encountered a severe sand storm. Anything is possible.
Today's drive is 180 km on the beack. Today's stage is the most spectacular leg of the journey. You have to be extra careful. Don't let the waves touch your wheels and don't go too far from the waves either. It's a balancing act. If you go too close to the water you'll sink in the ocean, but if you go too far from the water you'll sink in the soft sand. If you happened to bring a snowboard with you, there are some great sand hills along the way. Drive carefully and pay attention to the fishermen along the way.
They only have mini suites here for about 25,000U, but 4-5 people can sleep in a suite. Book your room by email in advance!! Each room has a fridge and it's own bathroom. It's a little tricky to enter the hotel from the beach, but not impossible. The hotel is 400-500 m North of the fish market. So if something smells fishy it can only mean two things. You either haven't showered since Marseille or you went too far. Turn around and go back to the hotel. There will be a huge community tent at the hotel where you can crash for the night. You can also set up your own tent. There will be room for everyone. There are two luxury hotels in town if you want to splurge.
According to our intelligence, the low tide is expected at around 5.14am. The problem with this is that you have to drive in the dark. It doesn't make much sense and it's not very safe either. The afternoon low tide is expected at 5.40pm which means that if you leave around 4pm you should bein Nouakchott by 7-8pm. You'll have the whole day to swim, relax, play volleyball and chill on the beach. In 2007 the beach party was a blast. Bring beach toys with you! In 2008 we encountered a severe sand storm. Anything is possible.
Today's drive is 180 km on the beack. Today's stage is the most spectacular leg of the journey. You have to be extra careful. Don't let the waves touch your wheels and don't go too far from the waves either. It's a balancing act. If you go too close to the water you'll sink in the ocean, but if you go too far from the water you'll sink in the soft sand. If you happened to bring a snowboard with you, there are some great sand hills along the way. Drive carefully and pay attention to the fishermen along the way.
They only have mini suites here for about 25,000U, but 4-5 people can sleep in a suite. Book your room by email in advance!! Each room has a fridge and it's own bathroom. It's a little tricky to enter the hotel from the beach, but not impossible. The hotel is 400-500 m North of the fish market. So if something smells fishy it can only mean two things. You either haven't showered since Marseille or you went too far. Turn around and go back to the hotel. There will be a huge community tent at the hotel where you can crash for the night. You can also set up your own tent. There will be room for everyone. There are two luxury hotels in town if you want to splurge.
Sunday, 25 January 2009
From the roadbook...
Day 9. January 25. Finish: B2 Beach. Orientation 7am.
Today's destination can be reached from two directions. If you have a 4WD you should go through Banc D'arguin National Park to reach today's finish. Driver's in 2WD or those who don't want to risk spending the night (or the next two weeks) among the dunes can reach today's destination through a different route and won't be required to buy a ticket to the national park. Exit the main road farther south, closer to Nouakchott. After exiting the paved road, drive to the beach on a hard surfaced dirt road. It was in good shape in October 2008, but be ready for surprises. The hard part will begin where the hard surface ends. There's a 50m stretch of soft sand between the hard road and the beach road. Be creative here. This used to be the day when jerry cans needed to be filled. Today there is a gas station before the entrance to the national park. Fill up your car here. Make sure you have plenty of water for today and tomorrow. Have four days worth of water and you may want an extra can of fuel in case you get lost.
Today's stage will take you through several fishing villages. The fish here is outstanding. Usually these waters are off limits to international fishing boats. Only the indigenous people are allowed to fish here in their traditional vessels. If you want to have fresh fish tonight for dinner, stop at any of the villages and support the local economy. They'll clean the fish for you as well for a petit cadeau.
If you make it to Nouamghar, please check out the National Park. If you didn't buy a ticket at the entrance you'll be required to buy one here.
If you have kid's clothes or school supplies, look for the teacher in Nouamghar, who is a really nice guy and leave some stuff for the families who live here.
Visit the police station in Nouamghar and make sure you let them know that you've passed through the village.
After Nouamghar you must drive on the beach. Don't go too close to the waves. You don't want to end up in South America. Don't park your car right on the beach. It may get washed away when the tides change. Be careful! Last year, some rocket scientists on the rally got their car filled up with water and it had to be rescued after the high tide was gone.
According to the Ministry of Tidal Affairs, conveniently located next door to the Ministry of Funny Walks, the tides are the following: January 26 - High tide: 11.20am Low tide: 5.07pm
This means that from around 4pm you should be able to drive on the beach without any problems. The tide data is never reliable. If you get stuck and can't get to the camp on time, just stay put and try to get to camp with the next low tide, which should be around 4 and 5am.
If you can't reach the campsite because of the tide, don't panic. Set up camp wherever you are and join the rest of the crew the following dy. You can spend the night with the Imraguen tribe in Nouamghar or go back to the National Park if you'd rather not be around other people.
A few thoughts about today's campsite: It's a virgin beach. There's no infrastructure of any kind. Just you, the sand and the ocean. However, the monthly tide washed out some sea waste recently. So you may find plastic containers, fishing nets or dried turtle corpses on the beach. It shouldn't encourage you to leave your own trash. Instead, help us clean up this part of the beach. All garbage should be burnt behind the campsite tomorrow.
The ocean is great this time of the year, so don't forget your bathing suit and your beach toys.
Today's destination can be reached from two directions. If you have a 4WD you should go through Banc D'arguin National Park to reach today's finish. Driver's in 2WD or those who don't want to risk spending the night (or the next two weeks) among the dunes can reach today's destination through a different route and won't be required to buy a ticket to the national park. Exit the main road farther south, closer to Nouakchott. After exiting the paved road, drive to the beach on a hard surfaced dirt road. It was in good shape in October 2008, but be ready for surprises. The hard part will begin where the hard surface ends. There's a 50m stretch of soft sand between the hard road and the beach road. Be creative here. This used to be the day when jerry cans needed to be filled. Today there is a gas station before the entrance to the national park. Fill up your car here. Make sure you have plenty of water for today and tomorrow. Have four days worth of water and you may want an extra can of fuel in case you get lost.
Today's stage will take you through several fishing villages. The fish here is outstanding. Usually these waters are off limits to international fishing boats. Only the indigenous people are allowed to fish here in their traditional vessels. If you want to have fresh fish tonight for dinner, stop at any of the villages and support the local economy. They'll clean the fish for you as well for a petit cadeau.
If you make it to Nouamghar, please check out the National Park. If you didn't buy a ticket at the entrance you'll be required to buy one here.
If you have kid's clothes or school supplies, look for the teacher in Nouamghar, who is a really nice guy and leave some stuff for the families who live here.
Visit the police station in Nouamghar and make sure you let them know that you've passed through the village.
After Nouamghar you must drive on the beach. Don't go too close to the waves. You don't want to end up in South America. Don't park your car right on the beach. It may get washed away when the tides change. Be careful! Last year, some rocket scientists on the rally got their car filled up with water and it had to be rescued after the high tide was gone.
According to the Ministry of Tidal Affairs, conveniently located next door to the Ministry of Funny Walks, the tides are the following: January 26 - High tide: 11.20am Low tide: 5.07pm
This means that from around 4pm you should be able to drive on the beach without any problems. The tide data is never reliable. If you get stuck and can't get to the camp on time, just stay put and try to get to camp with the next low tide, which should be around 4 and 5am.
If you can't reach the campsite because of the tide, don't panic. Set up camp wherever you are and join the rest of the crew the following dy. You can spend the night with the Imraguen tribe in Nouamghar or go back to the National Park if you'd rather not be around other people.
A few thoughts about today's campsite: It's a virgin beach. There's no infrastructure of any kind. Just you, the sand and the ocean. However, the monthly tide washed out some sea waste recently. So you may find plastic containers, fishing nets or dried turtle corpses on the beach. It shouldn't encourage you to leave your own trash. Instead, help us clean up this part of the beach. All garbage should be burnt behind the campsite tomorrow.
The ocean is great this time of the year, so don't forget your bathing suit and your beach toys.
Saturday, 24 January 2009
1.06pm
Brendan writes "Just about at the Mauritania border - plenty of military, plenty of landmine warnings - the weather's nice and sunny though ;-)"
From the roadbook...
Day 8. January 24. Finish: Nouadhibou. Distance: 425 km.
We'll be crossing the Tropic of Cancer today. It's easy to spot the Tropic of Cancer because there's a sign that says Tropic of Cancer. It's customary to leave a little trinket here to commemorate your crossing of the TOC. From today on, you'll be in the tropics.
Tropic of Cancer sign: N23 26.362 W15 57.969
If the sign has fallen please help it up!
There won't be much excitement till we reach Guerguarat. The desert landscape will become more and more like the way we always envisioned the Sahara. There will be several military checkpoints along the way. Slow down in time and make sure you have your papers handy. Make sure you fill up your vehicle and your jerry cans at the last gas station before the border. Fuel is cheaper here than in Mauritania. The last gas station in W. Sahara.
We'll be crossing the border at Fort Guerguarat. Keep in mind that the border closes between noon and 2pm for prayers and lunch.
Get ready for a nightmarish border crossing today. This will really be awful. Normally it takes 3-4 hours. During the Budapest-Bamako it takes 6-10 hours and there is not much we can do about it.
The border crossing takes place in 8 levels. You need to complete all 8 levels before you're home, safe.
Level 1 - Moroccan Police
They need to enter your passport information into a computer. There's one guy for this and he only uses on finger for typing. Then another guy checks his work. A third one enters your data in a book and then a fourth guy checks everyone's work in a different room. This usually takes about 1-3 hours. You need to wait for your passport at the metal police barricades.
Level 2 - Moroccan Customs
This is considerably faster than Level 1. If you don't have your customs papers you got at the point of entry, you will have to go back to Tangier or Nador. Once your papers are ok, they'll be stamped and you are ready for Level 3.
Level 3 - Moroccan Customs Check
You need to go outside and show your car to the customs guys outside who checks your vehicle, as well asthe officer's work who stamped your customs papers. They are always looking for drugs or guns. Don't carry either of these with you!
Level 4 - Gendermarie
This is a national police of sorts. The guys at Level 1 were local. These guys are the Feds. Their main tool of the trade is a gigantic leather bound book with checkered paper. This is where they have to write everyone's name by hand. Last year I recommended that we'd submit a computer printout or an email with every particpant's information. Their answer: OK, but how do we get the names into the book? Good point. Here the system is a little better; you have to take a number. Expected wait is 2-4 hours.
Level 5 - UN supervised demilitarized zone - mine field
You are done with Morocco, you are now ready to proceed to Mauritania.
WARNING: DO NOT GET OFF THE TRACK HERE! LANDMINES ARE EVERYWHERE! THIS IS A MILITARY ZONE! BETWEEN THE TWO BORDER POSTS THERE ARE LANDMINES!
In the past we mistakenly called this area no man's land. It's a military buffer zone under UN supervision. Neither the Mauris nor the Moroccans are allowed to enter in uniform.
There are several dangers here:
a) Landmines
b) Local guides! They will want to change money for you, show you where it's safe to drive, sell you postcards, wash your car, knit you a sweater, etc. If you are a license plate collector, they also sell license plates from varius countries. DO NOT DEAL WITH THEM. Yo uhave no recourse. This area is not governed by the laws of any country. If you feel safer by having a guide, the going rate is 20 Euros. If you get stuck in the sand, the rate for pulling you out is 40 Euros. DO NOT CHANGE MONEY HERE! There have been reports of counterfeit bank notes and other scams.
Don't get lost today. ALWAYS FOLLOW TYRE PRINTS. This is the only rule for this section. Everyone is afraid the first time. Don't be nervous! Always keep to the left. Follow the track, the prints and keep to the left until you reach the Mauritanian post.
Be careful and alert. If you have a 2x2 car, don't go onto soft sand! If you are nervous, hire a guide. Agree on the price and pay him only at the Mauritanian border.
WELCOME TO MAURITANIA
It's generally easier to cross the border coming into Mauritania than entering Morocco. The process has imprved greatly here since they demolished the two refrigerator boxes and erected a border post made of bricks instead. The customs shed is still made of industrial and animal waste, but there are signs of progress.
LEVEL 6 - Police
Show your passports. Smile. Normally the police guy always demands a petit cadeau. In 2005 it slowed down the border crossing .The constant arguing, haggling and bargaining made everyone edgy and slowed down the process. Give them something. Give 5-10 Euros, a flishlight, casette tape, T-shirt or whatever else you have in your petit cadeau box just to speed up the process. Don't give porn or booze.
LEVEL 7 - Border Guards.
Show your passports. Show your visa. Smile.
LEVEL 8 - Customs.
Here they can get a little mean. You need to register your car with customs just like in Morocco. Fill out the paperwork, pay 10 Euros and you are good to go. If you've been to Mauritania by car and your car is not stamped out of your passport, please get a new passport. It's cheaper than paying 50-100 Euros in bribes. It happened to me this year. You don't need an international driver's license.
Attention TRAINSPOTTERS: East of the paved road is the railway line, where the world's longest train runs twice daily.
Today's end stage is Nouadhibou. Please be careful in the city. Sailors, picpockets, illegal immigrants and prostitutes make the fabric of Nouadhibou colorful. Don't take more money than you can afford to lose. Leave your camera and valuables in a sfae place.
At the Abba there's a cook who makes excellent fish dishes. Find her and charm her into making you a fish feast.
We'll be crossing the Tropic of Cancer today. It's easy to spot the Tropic of Cancer because there's a sign that says Tropic of Cancer. It's customary to leave a little trinket here to commemorate your crossing of the TOC. From today on, you'll be in the tropics.
Tropic of Cancer sign: N23 26.362 W15 57.969
If the sign has fallen please help it up!
There won't be much excitement till we reach Guerguarat. The desert landscape will become more and more like the way we always envisioned the Sahara. There will be several military checkpoints along the way. Slow down in time and make sure you have your papers handy. Make sure you fill up your vehicle and your jerry cans at the last gas station before the border. Fuel is cheaper here than in Mauritania. The last gas station in W. Sahara.
We'll be crossing the border at Fort Guerguarat. Keep in mind that the border closes between noon and 2pm for prayers and lunch.
Get ready for a nightmarish border crossing today. This will really be awful. Normally it takes 3-4 hours. During the Budapest-Bamako it takes 6-10 hours and there is not much we can do about it.
The border crossing takes place in 8 levels. You need to complete all 8 levels before you're home, safe.
Level 1 - Moroccan Police
They need to enter your passport information into a computer. There's one guy for this and he only uses on finger for typing. Then another guy checks his work. A third one enters your data in a book and then a fourth guy checks everyone's work in a different room. This usually takes about 1-3 hours. You need to wait for your passport at the metal police barricades.
Level 2 - Moroccan Customs
This is considerably faster than Level 1. If you don't have your customs papers you got at the point of entry, you will have to go back to Tangier or Nador. Once your papers are ok, they'll be stamped and you are ready for Level 3.
Level 3 - Moroccan Customs Check
You need to go outside and show your car to the customs guys outside who checks your vehicle, as well asthe officer's work who stamped your customs papers. They are always looking for drugs or guns. Don't carry either of these with you!
Level 4 - Gendermarie
This is a national police of sorts. The guys at Level 1 were local. These guys are the Feds. Their main tool of the trade is a gigantic leather bound book with checkered paper. This is where they have to write everyone's name by hand. Last year I recommended that we'd submit a computer printout or an email with every particpant's information. Their answer: OK, but how do we get the names into the book? Good point. Here the system is a little better; you have to take a number. Expected wait is 2-4 hours.
Level 5 - UN supervised demilitarized zone - mine field
You are done with Morocco, you are now ready to proceed to Mauritania.
WARNING: DO NOT GET OFF THE TRACK HERE! LANDMINES ARE EVERYWHERE! THIS IS A MILITARY ZONE! BETWEEN THE TWO BORDER POSTS THERE ARE LANDMINES!
In the past we mistakenly called this area no man's land. It's a military buffer zone under UN supervision. Neither the Mauris nor the Moroccans are allowed to enter in uniform.
There are several dangers here:
a) Landmines
b) Local guides! They will want to change money for you, show you where it's safe to drive, sell you postcards, wash your car, knit you a sweater, etc. If you are a license plate collector, they also sell license plates from varius countries. DO NOT DEAL WITH THEM. Yo uhave no recourse. This area is not governed by the laws of any country. If you feel safer by having a guide, the going rate is 20 Euros. If you get stuck in the sand, the rate for pulling you out is 40 Euros. DO NOT CHANGE MONEY HERE! There have been reports of counterfeit bank notes and other scams.
Don't get lost today. ALWAYS FOLLOW TYRE PRINTS. This is the only rule for this section. Everyone is afraid the first time. Don't be nervous! Always keep to the left. Follow the track, the prints and keep to the left until you reach the Mauritanian post.
Be careful and alert. If you have a 2x2 car, don't go onto soft sand! If you are nervous, hire a guide. Agree on the price and pay him only at the Mauritanian border.
WELCOME TO MAURITANIA
It's generally easier to cross the border coming into Mauritania than entering Morocco. The process has imprved greatly here since they demolished the two refrigerator boxes and erected a border post made of bricks instead. The customs shed is still made of industrial and animal waste, but there are signs of progress.
LEVEL 6 - Police
Show your passports. Smile. Normally the police guy always demands a petit cadeau. In 2005 it slowed down the border crossing .The constant arguing, haggling and bargaining made everyone edgy and slowed down the process. Give them something. Give 5-10 Euros, a flishlight, casette tape, T-shirt or whatever else you have in your petit cadeau box just to speed up the process. Don't give porn or booze.
LEVEL 7 - Border Guards.
Show your passports. Show your visa. Smile.
LEVEL 8 - Customs.
Here they can get a little mean. You need to register your car with customs just like in Morocco. Fill out the paperwork, pay 10 Euros and you are good to go. If you've been to Mauritania by car and your car is not stamped out of your passport, please get a new passport. It's cheaper than paying 50-100 Euros in bribes. It happened to me this year. You don't need an international driver's license.
Attention TRAINSPOTTERS: East of the paved road is the railway line, where the world's longest train runs twice daily.
Today's end stage is Nouadhibou. Please be careful in the city. Sailors, picpockets, illegal immigrants and prostitutes make the fabric of Nouadhibou colorful. Don't take more money than you can afford to lose. Leave your camera and valuables in a sfae place.
At the Abba there's a cook who makes excellent fish dishes. Find her and charm her into making you a fish feast.
Friday, 23 January 2009
8.05pm
Question: Will you try to replace the windscreen?
Brendan writes "Nay, we'll try our luck with the crack. Brought the ski goggles just in case! We have 400 km left to go tonight..."
Brendan writes "Nay, we'll try our luck with the crack. Brought the ski goggles just in case! We have 400 km left to go tonight..."
5.54pm
News arrived that the Landrover windscreen has been hit hard in three places and is cracked from edge to edge. The Editor quickly got some supplier contact details to the boys (thanks for your help, Scott!).
Brendan writes "The South African team we're travelling with just had to replace a water pump - 4 hour job :-(. Will take 4 days to get the new windscreen out of UK so we superglued it and cross our fingers."
Brendan writes "The South African team we're travelling with just had to replace a water pump - 4 hour job :-(. Will take 4 days to get the new windscreen out of UK so we superglued it and cross our fingers."
From the roadbook...
Day 7. January 23. Finish: Tropic of Cancer. Distance: 880 km
About a 100-150 km from camp you will cross an imaginary border. You will enter into Western Sahara, but you are still in Morocco. "Huh?", you may ask. You are in a politically and diplomatically sensitive area, which is called Western Sahar, but because of it's occupied status, it's also called Southern Morocco. Because of it's special status there are also special circumstances here. Checkpoints, landmines and cheap gas.
WARNING! WARNING! DO NOT GET OFF THE TRACK!! DON'T DRIVE OFF TRACK. THERE ARE LANDMINES IN THIS AREA!
Get foor and fuel in Smara. Today we'll pass through Western Sahara's largest city, Laayoune. You can also fill up here. There are restaurants and many stores where you can buy fresh fruit and fish. After Laayoune you'll spot the Atlantic Coast. There are two great sites that shouldn't be missed today. One of them is a gorgeous virgin beach. Get off the main road to enjoy the beach here: N25 58.149 W14 30.110
The other is a thermal hot spring near Dakhla. We can't reveal the GPS coordinates of this place. It's yours to discover. If you do manage to find the thermal spring, an old lady will turn the water on for you for 10-20DH and you will take the best shower of your life. Please don't hog the shower. Let others use it too.
You'll also see many shipwrecks along the coast today. Tonight's bivouac will be South of Dakhla checkpoint on the beach. Dakhla has some crappy hotels and some half decent restaurants, but generally it's not worth driving 60 km back and forth. If you need to buy basic supplies, do your shopping at the gas station after the checkpoint.
There's an oyster farm near tonight's camp site, so if you'd like to take a break from canned food here's your chance. Don't forget to bring some champagne!
About a 100-150 km from camp you will cross an imaginary border. You will enter into Western Sahara, but you are still in Morocco. "Huh?", you may ask. You are in a politically and diplomatically sensitive area, which is called Western Sahar, but because of it's occupied status, it's also called Southern Morocco. Because of it's special status there are also special circumstances here. Checkpoints, landmines and cheap gas.
WARNING! WARNING! DO NOT GET OFF THE TRACK!! DON'T DRIVE OFF TRACK. THERE ARE LANDMINES IN THIS AREA!
Get foor and fuel in Smara. Today we'll pass through Western Sahara's largest city, Laayoune. You can also fill up here. There are restaurants and many stores where you can buy fresh fruit and fish. After Laayoune you'll spot the Atlantic Coast. There are two great sites that shouldn't be missed today. One of them is a gorgeous virgin beach. Get off the main road to enjoy the beach here: N25 58.149 W14 30.110
The other is a thermal hot spring near Dakhla. We can't reveal the GPS coordinates of this place. It's yours to discover. If you do manage to find the thermal spring, an old lady will turn the water on for you for 10-20DH and you will take the best shower of your life. Please don't hog the shower. Let others use it too.
You'll also see many shipwrecks along the coast today. Tonight's bivouac will be South of Dakhla checkpoint on the beach. Dakhla has some crappy hotels and some half decent restaurants, but generally it's not worth driving 60 km back and forth. If you need to buy basic supplies, do your shopping at the gas station after the checkpoint.
There's an oyster farm near tonight's camp site, so if you'd like to take a break from canned food here's your chance. Don't forget to bring some champagne!
Thursday, 22 January 2009
9pm
The Editor just got a call from the boys... they did not make it to the Star Wars party! Came up about 200 km short. Brendan was enjoying a nice hot bath (in the tent??) instead. They got some catching up to do tomorrow.
6.15pm
Brendan writes "Roads aren't so flash on this side of the Atlas. We know we're in Africa now. Will be touch and go to make Star Wars!"
3.03pm
Brendan writes "Driving through the Atlas amazing. Had to wait for the boys in the bulldozer to clear a mudslide for us but otherwise unscathed."
From the roadbook...
Day 6. January 22. Finish: Planet Tatooine.
No matter which way you go, you'll drive through some stunning scenery today. It's worth stopping in Therjit to see how an oasis town functions. After Tan-Tan turn south toward Abbetteh. You'll find Planet Tatooine here, where the Second Annual Saharan Star Wars Party will be held. If you wear a Star Wars Costume you'll get free beer courtesy of Bus #7. At 9pm we will have an open air screening of the original Star Wars. The first one, you know. Get your seats early and don't leave your light saber in your pod.
No matter which way you go, you'll drive through some stunning scenery today. It's worth stopping in Therjit to see how an oasis town functions. After Tan-Tan turn south toward Abbetteh. You'll find Planet Tatooine here, where the Second Annual Saharan Star Wars Party will be held. If you wear a Star Wars Costume you'll get free beer courtesy of Bus #7. At 9pm we will have an open air screening of the original Star Wars. The first one, you know. Get your seats early and don't leave your light saber in your pod.
Wednesday, 21 January 2009
11.48am
Brendan writes "Driving through cork plantations en route to Casablanca for lunch. Waited in Tanger for team South Africa to arrive. Surf on the coast is pumping and no one is out..."
From the roadbook...
Day 5. January 21. Finish: Ait Benhadhou. Distance: 660 km.
Today we'll leave the hustle and bustle of the Northern coast and head toward the enchanted Morocco of fairy tales. It's worth stopping in Casablanca for a while. It's not like the movie. First, it's in color. Second, Humphrey Bogart is dead. However, if you want to live out your Hollywood fantasies, head to Rick's Cafe, which was styled after the movie. The food is delicious too.
From here, go to Marrakech which should not be missed. Watch out for the regular tourist hassles, scams and pickpockets. Get a guide book or just inhale the magic of the old city and the markets. Make sure you find parking in a guarded lot.
Go toward Ourzazate and then to Ait Benhadhou. This is an old fortified kasbah, which is now part of the UNESCO world heritage sites. It's simply breathtaking. You can get to Ait Benhadhou on the scenic Route of Casbahs. This will take 3-4 hours at least. After Telouet the paved roads will end. If you can't get herebefore sunset don't even attempt this drive. It's not worth it.
Today we'll leave the hustle and bustle of the Northern coast and head toward the enchanted Morocco of fairy tales. It's worth stopping in Casablanca for a while. It's not like the movie. First, it's in color. Second, Humphrey Bogart is dead. However, if you want to live out your Hollywood fantasies, head to Rick's Cafe, which was styled after the movie. The food is delicious too.
From here, go to Marrakech which should not be missed. Watch out for the regular tourist hassles, scams and pickpockets. Get a guide book or just inhale the magic of the old city and the markets. Make sure you find parking in a guarded lot.
Go toward Ourzazate and then to Ait Benhadhou. This is an old fortified kasbah, which is now part of the UNESCO world heritage sites. It's simply breathtaking. You can get to Ait Benhadhou on the scenic Route of Casbahs. This will take 3-4 hours at least. After Telouet the paved roads will end. If you can't get herebefore sunset don't even attempt this drive. It's not worth it.
Tuesday, 20 January 2009
12.30pm
Brendan writes "Just leaving motorway from Malaga heading to the coast. Drive through Sierra Nevada was spectacular!"
From the roadbook...
Day 4. January 20. Finish: Tangier. Distance: 543 km.
You'll only have 543 kms to drive today. If you want to enjoy some coastal drivin, get off the highway near Marbella. Don't miss the monkeys of Gibraltar either.
Border crossing:
Your car must have a green card (insurance) in Morocco. You either buy this in your home country or at the border. The border crossing in general will feel like a pain in the neck. Welcome to Africa. You'll get through it.
First you'll go through immigration, and then you'll customs clear you vehicle. You'll get some papers from customs. After you get your papers stamped and approved you'll have to go back to your car and leave the border area. DO NOT THROW THEM AWAY! DO NOT LOSE THEM! YOU'LL NEED THEM WHEN YOU LEAVE THE COUNTRY.
ATTENTION: People might come up to your car offering you help for a smoother and speedier border crossing. Don't give them money and politely reject their services. Watch out for pickpockets at the border. Do not give your passport to anyone who doesn't have a uniform. It can be a little chaotic.
You can camp, get a room or even a spacious apartment here. Book your room in advance. If no rooms are available, there are many hotels in town. Make sure they have a closed parking lot. Tanger is a tough city with people trying to hassle and rob you. The camping site is a safe and comfortable place. If it's full and you find no suitable option in the city head south to Casablanca. There's a highway all the way there.
You'll only have 543 kms to drive today. If you want to enjoy some coastal drivin, get off the highway near Marbella. Don't miss the monkeys of Gibraltar either.
Border crossing:
Your car must have a green card (insurance) in Morocco. You either buy this in your home country or at the border. The border crossing in general will feel like a pain in the neck. Welcome to Africa. You'll get through it.
First you'll go through immigration, and then you'll customs clear you vehicle. You'll get some papers from customs. After you get your papers stamped and approved you'll have to go back to your car and leave the border area. DO NOT THROW THEM AWAY! DO NOT LOSE THEM! YOU'LL NEED THEM WHEN YOU LEAVE THE COUNTRY.
ATTENTION: People might come up to your car offering you help for a smoother and speedier border crossing. Don't give them money and politely reject their services. Watch out for pickpockets at the border. Do not give your passport to anyone who doesn't have a uniform. It can be a little chaotic.
You can camp, get a room or even a spacious apartment here. Book your room in advance. If no rooms are available, there are many hotels in town. Make sure they have a closed parking lot. Tanger is a tough city with people trying to hassle and rob you. The camping site is a safe and comfortable place. If it's full and you find no suitable option in the city head south to Casablanca. There's a highway all the way there.
Monday, 19 January 2009
3.47pm
Brendan writes "Late lunch in Valencia - paella on it's way! Our buddies from SA (South Africa) are having a bad day - got stuck in a snow drift, copped a 150 pound fine, waiting overnight for a water pump and just trashed a tyre!"
6.40am
Brendan writes "We got an early start and are headed for Barcelona. Hoping for a few more degrees as we're camping tonight. Pastis and boulabaisse went down a treat in Marseille last night!"
From the roadbook...
Day 3. January 19. Finish: Sangonera La Seca (Spain) near Murcia. Daily drive: 1121km.
This will be the longest stage of the B2B. You should wake up and leave as early as possible. Be ready for this day. You're looking at an 8-14 hour drive. You should be well rested. Don't party too much in France.
What you have to pay attention to in the morning is not running out of gas. For some strange reason, there are very few gas stations on the first leg of the drive. You can drive 100km without seeing one. So fill up whenever you have a chance.
If you have an extra hour or two, visit Montserrat near Barcelone or take some time and drive on the beach.
The official finish is in Sangonera La Seca, which is 15 km from Murcia. You can sleep in bungalows or set up your tent. The place is pretty crappy, but it's conveniently located and it's a great place to party and meet other teams. Try making new friends because you might have to share a bungalow with some other people. Last year there were 8-10 people in a 6 person bungalow. The staff are pretty rude and they have a tendency to shut the gates after 11pm. If you'd like something more comfortable, think about staying in Murcia. Alternatively, there's a big yearround nudist camp 60km south from Murcia. If you're up for another 30-45 minutes of driving and some nudity, check out the scene at Camping Portus.
This will be the longest stage of the B2B. You should wake up and leave as early as possible. Be ready for this day. You're looking at an 8-14 hour drive. You should be well rested. Don't party too much in France.
What you have to pay attention to in the morning is not running out of gas. For some strange reason, there are very few gas stations on the first leg of the drive. You can drive 100km without seeing one. So fill up whenever you have a chance.
If you have an extra hour or two, visit Montserrat near Barcelone or take some time and drive on the beach.
The official finish is in Sangonera La Seca, which is 15 km from Murcia. You can sleep in bungalows or set up your tent. The place is pretty crappy, but it's conveniently located and it's a great place to party and meet other teams. Try making new friends because you might have to share a bungalow with some other people. Last year there were 8-10 people in a 6 person bungalow. The staff are pretty rude and they have a tendency to shut the gates after 11pm. If you'd like something more comfortable, think about staying in Murcia. Alternatively, there's a big yearround nudist camp 60km south from Murcia. If you're up for another 30-45 minutes of driving and some nudity, check out the scene at Camping Portus.
Sunday, 18 January 2009
From Venice to Meyreuil...
7.35am - "Stayed in a small town just outside of Venice. Yummy food and chianti! Almost followed the faithful GPS into a canal a couple of times on the way in!"
9.24am - "We're on the road - coffee in Milano & lunch in Monaco. Tough day at the office!"
From the roadbook:
Day 2. January 18. Finish: Meyreuil. Daily distance: 776 km
Enjoy the sights of the Cote D'Azur. Stop in Monte Carlo, Cannes or Nice.
Have a nice meal in France. This will be one of your last chances to eat well. Aix En Provence is a small town 30km from Marseille. Next to this town there's a small village called Meyreuil.
9.24am - "We're on the road - coffee in Milano & lunch in Monaco. Tough day at the office!"
(Editor's note: Surely the Editor deserves those two new pairs of shoes, if someone is dining his way through the south of France? I thought they were roughing it??)
From the roadbook:
Day 2. January 18. Finish: Meyreuil. Daily distance: 776 km
Enjoy the sights of the Cote D'Azur. Stop in Monte Carlo, Cannes or Nice.
Have a nice meal in France. This will be one of your last chances to eat well. Aix En Provence is a small town 30km from Marseille. Next to this town there's a small village called Meyreuil.
Saturday, 17 January 2009
And they're off to a flying start!
10.30am - Ready Set GO!
1.50pm - Brendan writes "We're in Slovenia after the quickest visit to Croatia ever - oops, wrong turn :-)"
"Just another stamp in the passport!"
4.22pm - "Near border of Italy - pasta for dinner!"
1.50pm - Brendan writes "We're in Slovenia after the quickest visit to Croatia ever - oops, wrong turn :-)"
"Just another stamp in the passport!"
4.22pm - "Near border of Italy - pasta for dinner!"
Friday, 16 January 2009
Best bath ever.....
After a few busy days searching out sand ladders (not an easy task in Budapest let me tell you), loading maps of Africa onto the GPS, press conferences, stuffing ourselves with goulash and discussing various red wine smuggling options with fellow travellers we were both stoked to discover the thermal baths. Even with sub zero air temps the outdoor Szechenyi gyogyfurdo baths are maintained at a sensational 38 deg C thanks to the plentiful, underground thermal springs. Even the ducks on the nearby lake were looking pretty pleased that a little of the hot water was leaking their way. Not only could you lay back an enjoy the sensational mineral bath surrounded by period architecture but you can can also sip on a cool beer at the same time - very civilised!
We checked the Disco in at the start line this afternoon and took a few pics with the sponsors -Martin & Mickael flew in from Doha last night to attend the send off festivities. Tonite we'll attend a function for all the foreign teams participating in this years B2B and look forward meeting a more of the colourful characters that this event attracts. Tomorrow morning we roll out of town enroute for Italy and the rally will be underway - game on!
Public Warning - Anyone visiting WorldGate GPS in Budapest should exercise extreme caution when asking owner "Zoltan" about his home brewed prickly pear liquor. Pete made the fatal mistake earlier today and was only saved when a Dutch team rolled into the store and opened the door long enough for him to duck out! Here's a sample of the SMS I received whilst Pete was under siege "Dude this is way beyond Giddy up, this is spank em hard. A Dutch team has arrived and they are ceremoniously getting greeted by Zultan". Zultan's wife warned Pete too late that Zultan's friends run for cover fast when he reaches for the bottle.
We checked the Disco in at the start line this afternoon and took a few pics with the sponsors -Martin & Mickael flew in from Doha last night to attend the send off festivities. Tonite we'll attend a function for all the foreign teams participating in this years B2B and look forward meeting a more of the colourful characters that this event attracts. Tomorrow morning we roll out of town enroute for Italy and the rally will be underway - game on!
Public Warning - Anyone visiting WorldGate GPS in Budapest should exercise extreme caution when asking owner "Zoltan" about his home brewed prickly pear liquor. Pete made the fatal mistake earlier today and was only saved when a Dutch team rolled into the store and opened the door long enough for him to duck out! Here's a sample of the SMS I received whilst Pete was under siege "Dude this is way beyond Giddy up, this is spank em hard. A Dutch team has arrived and they are ceremoniously getting greeted by Zultan". Zultan's wife warned Pete too late that Zultan's friends run for cover fast when he reaches for the bottle.
Wednesday, 14 January 2009
Journey to the other side of the Duna...
Today we ventured across to the otherside of the Duna river (the icey river that separates the two halves of the city) to get maps of Africa loaded on to our GPS. The folks at WorldGate GPS were fantastic they took care of our navigation needs, lined up a garage to wash the car ahead of it's appointment with the press tomorrow am, organised some sand ladders at a fair price, made us a cup of coffee and took care of any translation needs. Speaking of which although not knowing any Hungarian isn't too much of a barrier most of the time not all of the locals understand English. Pete is doing his best to build bridges through, and it was with the best intent that he asked one of the girls behind the bar last night "where could we do our laundry" unfortunately she thought he said "could you do our Laundry for us" and we found it very difficult to get a drink for the rest of the evening!
We can definitely recommend a bar call the "Old Man" if you're ever passing through Budapest. It's a cosy bar with live blues music, relaxed crowd and good atmosphere - even on a freezing Tuesday night the place was jumping.
We can definitely recommend a bar call the "Old Man" if you're ever passing through Budapest. It's a cosy bar with live blues music, relaxed crowd and good atmosphere - even on a freezing Tuesday night the place was jumping.
Tuesday, 13 January 2009
We're in Budapest!
After a huge team effort (thanks MB) Phase 1 is complete and Pete & I are in Budapest. With the assistance of our coveted Garmin we located our hotel which is walking distance to the start line - which is handy cos there is a SMOG warning in place in Budapest whereby depending on if your number plate ends in an even or odd number you'll actually be able to drive out of Budapest on Saturday?? Lucky for us we have an arabic number plate and will most likely be making some new friends by offering them a tow to the outskirts of the city!
News of Pete's epic journey (Peter of Arabia) has leaked and the international media are after him. Media Manager (Brendan) is carefully scheduling his time such that we can still check out the traditional bath houses around town and some of the subterranean Labyrinths below the streets of Budapest.
Todays Bizarre Moment - We got a bit excited today when we passed a shop which had what we presumed to be masks of Star Wars characters (just what we need for the Stars wars party at "Planet Tatooine" on Day 6 of the rally). On closer inspection they turned out to be kids school bags that were decorations in the store and not actually for sale. Never mind we'll keep searching for that elusive darth vader costume!
News of Pete's epic journey (Peter of Arabia) has leaked and the international media are after him. Media Manager (Brendan) is carefully scheduling his time such that we can still check out the traditional bath houses around town and some of the subterranean Labyrinths below the streets of Budapest.
Todays Bizarre Moment - We got a bit excited today when we passed a shop which had what we presumed to be masks of Star Wars characters (just what we need for the Stars wars party at "Planet Tatooine" on Day 6 of the rally). On closer inspection they turned out to be kids school bags that were decorations in the store and not actually for sale. Never mind we'll keep searching for that elusive darth vader costume!
10.33am
Brendan writes "We're in Hungary! Very warm welcome at the border. The customs guy wants to do the rally next year so all he wanted was some tips on ho to set up his car. Spirits are high - lunch will be in Buda or Pest!"
Monday, 12 January 2009
10.50am
Brendan writes "It took us 50km to revive the heater in the car which had given up, probably frozen. Climbing up towards Sofia after no dramas at Turkey/Bulgaria border."
Sunday, 11 January 2009
Visit to ANZAC cove
What better way for an Aussie and a New Zealander to begin their journey across 3 continents than by paying tribute to there fallen country men at Galipoli.
The detour added ~ 500 km to the trip but was well worth it. Being the middle of winter the coast at ANZAC cove was desserted and as Pete and I stood on the beach where the first soldiers landed at 04:30 on 25th April 1915 you got a real feeling of the isolation they must have experienced. One of the things that struck us both was the extremely small area in which so much blood was spilt. Over 100,000 lives were lost in the 9 month campaign which suceeded in taking hardly enough terra firma for a decent game of beach cricket. The landing at ANZAC cove, cemetaries, battle monuments and general information is extremely well presented and maintained and well worth a look. RIP
The detour added ~ 500 km to the trip but was well worth it. Being the middle of winter the coast at ANZAC cove was desserted and as Pete and I stood on the beach where the first soldiers landed at 04:30 on 25th April 1915 you got a real feeling of the isolation they must have experienced. One of the things that struck us both was the extremely small area in which so much blood was spilt. Over 100,000 lives were lost in the 9 month campaign which suceeded in taking hardly enough terra firma for a decent game of beach cricket. The landing at ANZAC cove, cemetaries, battle monuments and general information is extremely well presented and maintained and well worth a look. RIP
4.11pm
Brendan writes "Just departed Galipoli en route to Turkey-Bulgarian border. It was great to pay respect to our fallen countrymen at ANZAC Cove and visit the battlegrounds."
Saturday, 10 January 2009
10 Jan - Istanbul
The team of 3 (Pete, Brendan and Manoj) are still eating their way through Istanbul. After an epic seafood meal last night (Balik quvec - seafood casserole) Manoj and Brendan have to sneak white bread and sweets cos Pete insists they are just fillers and of no nutritional value! Our tactic today when we passed a Baklava store was for Manoj to distract Pete whilst Brendan ran in and did the deed. The Turkish delight was to die for and in the end even Pete weakened.
After breakfast we headed to Aya Sofya which was only a 5 min walk up the cobbled streets of "old town" from our hotel. Manoj had promised to light a candle for Jim's wife so we split up and covered every inch of the massive buidling in search of a candle. The huge spans of vaulted ceilings, 36m diameter dome in the center and acres of slab marble floors was impressive to say the least. When we finally regrouped we came to the realisation that since converting the premises to Islamic faith perhaps it was no longer possible to light a candle. Pete suggested we could set fire to something but after close scutiny from the security guards we decided against it! Sorry Jimbo we tried!
After our confession session we jumped on the red double decker for a look around the city. Note to self - when it is sub-zero and you're sitting on the top of an opened air bus don't forget some warm clothes - we all needed to be chipped off the seats when the tour finished 2 hours later. However the skies were clear and we got a good look around including the bridge that links the continents of Asia and Europe, the remains of the walls that once protected the ancient city and the many fisherman trying their luck on the Bosphorous.
After the bus tour we defrosted with a coffee and headed to another seafood restaurant this time under a Galata bridge. We enjoyed a lazy lunch as the ferries raced back and forth in front of us. We then legged it back to the hotel in time for Manoj to grab a cab to the airport - he returns to his family in Doha tonight. Big thanks for Manoj for his efforts in getting the team this far with a smooth trip through the borders of Saudi, Jordan, Syria and Turkey. Appreciate it mate. From Pete: Manoj smoothed the way in many potentially difficult situations. He fits in everywhere and speaking Arabic saved our behinds from being shamefully abused, many times. Sans castrol oil. You're a legend.
Tomorrow both Pete and Brendan are looking forward to getting on the road - enough of this hotel / restaurant lifestyle - we're ready to rough it! Our next stop will be a very fitting one for the Kiwi and Aussie as we'll be stopping at Galipoli to pay a little respect. We may be out of internet range for a while as we head up through Bulgaria and Serbia but hope to be in Budapest in 2 days time.
10am
Brendan writes "Just had a big breakfast, going to light a candle for Jim at the Aya Sofya, drop MB at airport and head to Galipoli."
Friday, 9 January 2009
The team members are all in Istanbul!
Brendan writes "In Turkey. Taxi driver is driving like it's still a race but the lads are already drinking beer at the hotel!"
Thursday, 8 January 2009
Looking back... Day 3, 4, 5 from Manoj's journal
Day 3 started off a little later at the Meridien Hotel, Lattakia with a short drive through the beautifully green Kassab area of Syria. Then across the border, past Antakya, Adana, Tarsus and Ankara. We ran out of fuel & daylight & slept in the car. Minus 4 deg C with snow outside. 1100 km covered, highest point 1600m.
Ancient site of Ugarit, just north of Lattakia.
More of the site at Ugarit, where the oldest cunieform writing has been found.
Syrian / Turkish border.
The most delicious cake in the world - packed by Samantha. It lasted 3 days because Pete kept it hidden from Manoj. (Editor's note: thanks to Jack for sharing it at the Apache office and Susan for sharing the recipe!)
A lake in Kassab, Syria.
The night spent in the Landy. Someone was snoring.Days 4 & 5: Pete & Manoj got to Istanbul a just few mintues before Brendan, completing 4000 km by road. After a few beers, and then some more beers we tried to find the Greek Orthodox shed next to the Aya Sofia to light candles for Jim, Marina & world peace. We did not find it, but got a good discount on some postcards - sorry Jim they'll have to do. Good luck Brendan & Pete for the rest of the trip!
Crossing the Bospherous from Asia to Europe. Pete was filming whilst driving. "Take it easy, Pete."
The hotel Acropol, where we stayed. 5 minutes walk from Aya Sofia & the Blue Mosque not to mention countless bars & eateries.
Brendan hits the sack early. He woke up in the bathroom as someone was snoring.
Pete & Manoj outside the Blue Mosque.
The Turks are huge fans of Giri - his name was everywhere. (Editor's note: Manoj's son's name is Giri.)
Entrance to Aya Sofia.
Aya Sofia - still can't find those candles. Maybe it has something to do with the place becoming a mosque a few centuries ago.
Bus tour of Istanbul - all 3 of us were frozen to the core.
Fishermen across the bride over the Golden Horn.
Crustaceans!
One of the old wooden houses of Istanbul.
Fish restaurant below the bridge where the guys were fishing. Welcome! Welcome! (Editor's note: Pick the newbie...)
Pete contemplating the miles ahead. 2.25pm
The boys are cruising through Turkey - Adana, Capadocia, Ankara, Istanbul over two days.
Brendan flies out tomorrow morning to meet them in Istanbul. All packed and ready to roll.
Brendan flies out tomorrow morning to meet them in Istanbul. All packed and ready to roll.
9am
Pete writes "Just having what could loosely be described as swine slop complete with swine bits as breakfast at our minus 5 star hotel. We do have a Med view however and there is a reef break. Shower pressure was good."
6am
Pete writes "In Latakia on the Med (Syria close to border with Turkey)."
Manoj says "Price of fuel is increasing as we travel towards Europe - should have bought a tanker trailer of diesel in Saudi!"
Manoj says "Price of fuel is increasing as we travel towards Europe - should have bought a tanker trailer of diesel in Saudi!"
Wednesday, 7 January 2009
From Manoj's Journal
Manoj is safely back in Doha, and shares some of his photographic diary...
Pete in Green Village compound at 03:30, fully loaded.
Day one of getting the Land Rover Discovery from Doha to Budapest.
Sir Peter Theisinger & Sir Manoj Fiennes took off at 03:55 on 6/01/09 with the objective of meeting up with Sir Brendan Shakleton in Istanbul, 4000 km by road in Istanbul on 9/01/09.
Pete in Green Village compound at 03:30, fully loaded.
Cockpit of the Discovery with no less than 3 different GPS devices.
KSA, Hufhuf
Small town past Hufhuf, where we saw one of the best desert camping shops. Everything you could want and cheap as chips.
Crossing a railway line.
Cooking Pete's egg sandwich.
Pete washing down the sandwich with some tea. Filling up the car was sweet - 40 litres of diesel came to 8 Saudi Riyals or 1.60 GB Pounds.
Saudi is not all desert. There were loads of oases and some freshwater lakes as it rained recently.
Hotel in Turayf, KSA. Outside temperature: -2 Celsius. Price for a twin room for 2 persons 200 Saudi Riyals, which is about 40 GB Pounds.
One of the desert pools of freshwater.
Looking back... Day 2 from Manoj's journal
Day two began at 5:30 am in Turayf, KSA. Then across the border to Jordan, past Amman to the Dead Sea for a dip, back past Aman to Syria near Daraa. Then a drive through Damascus via Homs to Lattakia close to the Turkish border. Total 800 km by road up to 1500 m elevation near Homs.
GPS showing an elevation of minus 345 m as we descend towards the Dead Sea coast.
Dead Sea coast. Just managed to get rid of one of the guys out of the Chemical Brothers music video by giving him a slice of the Bloke's Cake. Much to Manoj's dismay.
Pete in the middle of the Dead Sea - he tried to swim to the other side - but was put off by the guns.
Marriott Hotel, Dead Sea - salmon & cream cheese bagels with tomato pastries washed down with some ice cold orange juice (know what I mean Taz).
The morning after. We didn't manage to take any photos of the drive between Damascus & Homs, which was done in the dark, through a thunderstorm with psychotic Syrian drivers trying to trail us like heat seeking missiles.
Pete applying some TLC to the Landy. We lost some oil in the 2600 km covered so far.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
